Tag: repair

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How to Diagnose a Dead Car Battery

A car that refuses to start can have any number of things wrong with it, but by far the most common is a dead battery. Rather than paying a tow truck to bring it in to the shop here at Cars for Keeps, there are a few simple ways to diagnose whether your battery is dead or something more serious is amiss.

Here are a few simple ways to check if it’s time to get a new battery or some professional help from a mechanic.

Try turning the headlights on. If you turn the ignition key and hear a “click”, but the engine doesn’t roll over, this is a good indicator that there’s not enough juice to turn the engine. A good way to double-check this is to try the electrical system by turning on your headlights and attempting to honk the horn. If they don’t work, it’s a likely bet your engine is dead. If your lights work but the engine might roll over, there may be a problem with your carburetor or fuel injector, and it’s time to bring it in to Cars for Keeps for some car battery repair.

Check for dirty or faulty battery connections. Put on some non-conductive (latex) gloves, pop the hood and check the cable connections to your battery. If you’re not at all mechanically inclined, simply look for the two large lead terminals protruding from a box, with cables leading out from the terminals. Wiggle the clamps to see if their loose, then reaffix them securely to the terminals. Clean excessive dirt from the lead terminals if they’re dirty, then try starting the car again. If it still doesn’t start, it’s probably time to visit Cars for Keeps for some car battery maintenance.

Try jumpstarting the battery. Just like in Princess Bride, car batteries have different levels of “deadness”. A car battery that’s mostly dead will start when jumpstarted. If the car does jumpstart, you’ll want to make sure the engine is turned on long enough for the car to recharge. If it doesn’t restart, the car battery is likely all dead – or something more serious is wrong. Rather than looking through its pockets for loose change, give us a call.

Faulty alternators, fuel injectors and carburetors can often mimic a dead car battery, so if your vehicle has reoccuring start problems or none of the above tests work, it’s a good idea to have a professional mechanic take a look under the hood. Catching these types of problems before they blossom into a full breakdown can save on hefty repair costs.

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Automatic Transmission Failure: How to Check Fluid and Prevent Costly Breakdowns

No two words strike fear into the hearts of those of us who are not mechanically inclined like the words: transmission failure.

Checking my engine oil may be the extent of my automotive expertise, but I’ve learned that having a faulty automatic transmission can mean almost certain death for a vehicle. For most cars, particularly those that are getting on in life, the cost of replacing an automatic transmission exceeds the value of the entire vehicle – rather like totaling your car.

Fortunately, transmission failure does not happen randomly; indeed, catching the early signs of transmission trouble is easy if you know what to look for. Here are a few things you can do to make sure your automatic transmission doesn’t cause premature car death.

1) Own cars with manual transmissions. Ok, so this isn’t exactly a solution to maintaining an automatic transmission, but car owners should be aware of the differences between manual (standard) and automatic transmissions. Manual transmissions (or “stick shifts”) are more energy efficient than automatics, but more importantly, they have far fewer moving parts – which means way less maintenance and risk of part failure. Sure, you can talk on your cell phone, keep the kids in the backseat from fighting and drink your coffee simultaneously while driving an automatic, but a manual transmission will never conk out like an automatic.

2) Check automatic transmission fluid (ATF) regularly. This is really not hard – no harder than checking your oil levels. If you’re unsure exactly which dipstick is for the ATF or what to look for once you find it, watch this short video on how to check your car’s ATF. If you’re still unsure, there’s a great little auto repair shop on Fulton Street where the mechanics would be happy to show you.

Keep in mind, you’re looking for two things: level and color. The fluid mark needs to hit between the low and high marks, and it should be nice and red.

3) Change your ATF regularly! Although it may seem like this step would naturally follow the previous step, there are those of us (like me) who need the reminder. If your transmission fluid is dark, brown or muddy-colored, it’s time for a professional to take a peek and probably perform a transmission fluid flush.

Please think twice before taking your car to a drive-through service for transmission fluid flushes. There are many reasons why these places don’t always offer the best service for your money, but a certified AAA repair shop like Cars for Keeps will certainly give you a more thorough flush and overall checkup.

4) Listen to your car. As we’ve said here before, your car will usually tell you something is wrong before a major breakdown. Any out of the ordinary noises could be suspect, so bring your car in for inspection if you hear anything unusual. J.B. Herbert gives us a few pointers here:

Safe driving and healthy cars until next time!

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Top 4 Car Myths – True or Untrue?

You hear the craziest things about how to maintain your car. And let’s admit it: most of us DO crazy things – or worse, we do things to our cars based on rumors and myths rather than concrete mechanical knowledge. In an age when most of us get 90% of our car knowledge from movies like “Gone in Sixty Seconds”, we could probably all use a little maintenance myth-busting that helps us know which mythical advice to follow and which to throw out the window.

1) Always keep your gas tank full. This is a major point of contention between my husband and me. Seeing how far I can get the needle to go below the big red E is like a sport for me – if worst comes to worst, I can always swerve to get the last remaining dregs into the combustion chamber. My husband is far more practical and points out the safety of having a full gas tank.

As it turns out, keeping a full gas tank not only means that you can jump in the car for trips to the emergency room without stopping for gas, but it also prevents water from getting in the tank. Particularly during cold winter months, condensed water forms on the inside of an empty tank, causing improper flow and, at times, stalling. I’ve had this happen numerous times; my poor little Focus even conked out on the freeway once when I’d been running it on fumes. Turns out, it just wanted a full tank to push the water out.

2) Premium gas will mean better mileage and fewer repairs. My penny-pinching side is happy to report that this is relatively bogus. With today’s fuel standards, even low and mid grades of gasoline have detergents and other additives that keep everything running smooth. Additionally, the mileage you’ll gain with premium isn’t nearly big enough to justify the cost. Unless you have a supercharged engine or a Hemi, premium doesn’t make much of a difference.

3) Always warm up your car. As unpleasant as it is to slosh through powder in your pajamas, this one is actually an excellent idea, as it benefits both driver and the car. Particularly on those nostril-freezing winter mornings Michigan is so famous for, giving your car a few minutes to warm allows it to move oil and other fluids to where they need to go. The difference in car function can be tantamount to the safety difference between a driver stepping into a warm interior and gazing out of a clear windshield and a driver gripping an icy steering wheel and asthmatically jerking from the cold.

4) Wait a while before going through a car wash after repairs. I was shocked to see in our analytics report that someone had searched the term “how long after repairs can I go through the carwash”, but hey – I’ve believed crazier myths. Let’s let Rob tackle this question: “I am surprised how frequently this question comes up and have found that most of the questioners have had body repairs done to their vehicles where the body man recommended waiting a certain period before washing the car. In the mechanical repair field, there are very few situations where the vehicle cannot be washed or driven right away. If such an occasion arises, typically, the vehicle is kept for follow-up and road testing to ensure a complete repair.”

Safe driving!

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What Are the Potential Dangers and Costs of Not Replacing Your Timing Belt Regularly?

Expensive damage can be caused to your engine: Many timing belt engines are “interference motors”, which simply means that the valves would hit the pistons if not kept in proper timing. This is not a problem under normal operating conditions but if the timing belt were to break or jump off the gears, the valves of one or more cylinders would strike the pistons and cause severe and costly damage.

If your car has more than the recommended mileage on the timing belt, you may be operating your car on borrowed time and the cost of replacing the belt is MUCH cheaper than having to rebuild or replace the engine because of damage caused by a snapped/worn timing belt.

Parts can be hard to find to repair damage caused by a failed timing belt: It’s obvious that timing belt replacement as a preventive maintenance measure is often ignored. This is so prevalent, in fact, that many car manufacturers and engine parts manufacturers don’t stock major engine components for timing-belt engines after the required 5-7 years because there will be only a handful of these cars still on the road. It can be quite difficult to find crankshafts, pistons, connecting rods, camshafts and the like for these older engines due to the economic infeasibility for the manufacturers to continue producing these parts for the few cars that they estimate will still be on the road.

In fact, many car manufacturers don’t expect timing-belt driven engines to last through more than two timing belts or approximately 120,000-150,000 miles and, moreover, they actually expect many to be taken out of service with the original belt still installed. Sadly, there are hundreds of thousands of 85,000-90,000 mile timing belt cars in junkyards because the timing belt was never replaced. What a waste when these cars could still be enjoying a useful life had the owner just paid attention to the recommended mileage replacement intervals for the timing belt.

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Know What You Are Doing

Many of today’s autos have timing belts. If you keep up with all the necessary services today’s automobiles are engineered to last well over 100,000 miles. Your auto, being in good shape now has 50,000 plus miles on it and you plan on keeping it. You will now have to consider the big expensive service. The Timing Belt.

This timing belt is made of the same basic materials that the other drive (fan) belts are made of. The timing belt is probably one of the more expensive and more important maintenance items you will have to do. Follow your manufacturer’s time and mileage recommendations for this service. Many of today’s engines are called “interference engines”. This means if your timing belt skips or breaks the valve and pistons are no longer in sync and will hit each other causing very extensive damage internally to the point of having to replace the complete engine itself.

If you plan on replacing the timing belt yourself you best be very mechanically inclined. Replacing this belt on a four cylinder engine is not all that difficult if you know what you are doing. Replacing this belt on a six cylinder engine, especially a transverse engine, can be over bearing for the average backyard do-it-yourselfer. If the engine is not an interference type and belt timing is off by a few teeth the worse that will happen is the engine not running properly and the belt has to be re-timed. If the engine is an interference type and the belt is off by too many teeth the valves and piston will hit each other, so by trying to save money you have just ruined the entire engine. Think twice or three times before attempting this belt replacement by yourself. Some things are better left to pros even if it costs more. Don’t forget, at least this way you have a certain warrantee on the repair should something go wrong.

Choosing not to do the timing belt when the service is due can lead to the same engine damage should this belt skip a few teeth or break from age

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When To Replace Your Timing Belt

Timing belt replacement is the “must-do” service operation which every car owner should know about. Along with that knowledge, we should be aware of whether our engine is considered an interference engine or not. These two bits of information can, at a minimum, save us from unexpected breakdown and in the extreme can help us avoid thousands of dollars in repairs.
Without getting too technical, the synchronization between two internal engine parts (the crank and cam shafts) is accomplished with the help of the timing belt. In the process of these two parts moving the valves open and close in close proximity to the pistons. This constitutes an interference engine, because if the timing belt jumps a tooth on the sprocket on which it rides or the belt fails altogether the valves and pistons will “interfere” with each other.

This collision will cause major damage to the engine. The repair bill will, on older vehicles, often exceed the value of the car. On the other hand, a car whose engine is not configured this way will simply lose power or will not start. While this might be more desirable than facing huge repair costs, it is something that is better avoided if possible.

The motivation for preemptive replacement of the timing belt is obvious. But how do you know when to replace it? There is always the owner’s manual which will indicate mileage of anywhere from 50,000 to 90,000 miles. For a comprehensive list of timing belt service intervals and the type of engine (interference or not) check out About.com.

Some other considerations relative to timing belt replacement are:

1) Is the vehicle leaking any type of fluid that might degrade the belt, if so disregard the suggested replacement interval and replace the belt ASAP as well as repair the leak;

2) Do you know the repair history of the vehicle if it is not verifiable err on the side of safety and replace the belt;

3) Timing belt replacement can be labor intensive. Since the water pump is usually accessed in the same operation you might consider replacing the pump at the same time even if it doesn’t leak. You will save on labor and possibly prevent a pump replacement later on that will also necessitate the belt to be replaced again;

4) To avoid subsequent failure consider replacing sprockets and tensioners that are part of the timing belt system. All components are sometimes sold as a kit and can be less expensive than purchasing them individually.

All service intervals should be followed in order to protect your investment and maintain the integrity of your warranty. In the case of the timing belt, it just makes sense.

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Replacing Your Car’s Timing Belt

Knowing When To Change A Timing Belt

Changing a timing belt on your vehicle can be a very time consuming. This is due to the fact that there are a lot of components under your hood that must be removed before you can even get to your vehicle’s timing belt. This is why it is best to change a timing belt at the same time that you are planning on doing other repairs and maintenance practices to your vehicle such as putting on a replacement water pump or changing belts like the serpentine, air conditioner or water pump belt.
Timing belts tend to begin breaking down at around 60,000 miles. You will notice the power to your vehicle begin to slow down, the fuel efficiency of your vehicle can be affected as well as your vehicle showing signs of working harder.
How To Change A Timing Belt or Timing Chain
Different vehicles have different patterns for changing a timing belt or timing chain. The best thing to do when you want to change the timing belt is to look over your owner’s manual that is specific for your make and model vehicle. You can also purchase an automobile repair manual that is designed specifically for the needs of your automobile at any automotive repair shop in your local area.
The basics to changing a timing belt on the vehicle however are pretty much uniform. The steps to do this are as follows:
Step 1. Before you can replace the timing belt on any vehicle it is a good idea to let the vehicle sit overnight so that the engine is completely cool and there is a reduced chance of experiencing serious burns from the engine.
Step 2. As it is with most vehicle repairs you must first disconnect any power supply to the vehicle. This means that the battery cables must be removed from the battery terminal and tied back so that there is no risk of them touching the posts or other parts of the vehicle while working.
Step 3. Place blocks in front and behind the wheels of your vehicle so that there is not chance of the vehicle rolling and accidentally causing injuries to you or others who may be around.
You will now need to remove any obstructions that may be in the way of getting to your timing belt. This includes:
Step 4. Make sure that the air intake assembly to your vehicle is completely removed.
Step 5. Locate the pulley that powers the supply to your water pump if this is in the way on your vehicle. You will need to loosen the bolt holding this pulley in place.
Step 6. For some vehicles it may be necessary to do the same for other equipment such as the power steering pump. This will require you to loosen the bolt and remove the belt that is around the pulley. You can then unbolt the power steering pump and move it out of your way.
Step 7. Line up the mark on your crankshaft pulley to the O that is on the timing scale with a large wrench. You can find the timing scale molded on your vehicle engine block.
Step 8. Using the right sized socket you will have to removed the bolts that are holding the timing belt cover on. When you have the bolts removed you can then pull off the timing belt cover.
Step 9. Inspect the timing belt tensioned bearings for any looseness or noise. If these problems exist you will need to replace the timing belt tensioned bearings as well.
Step 10. Locate your camshaft and check to makes sure there are no leaks in the crankshaft or camshaft seals. If you do notice leaking this could be an early sign that there will be premature failure for your new timing belt. It is best to replace these seals now instead of waiting for bigger problems and the chance of having to do all of this work again.
Step 11. For most vehicle makes and models you should now be able to locate the timing belt. Make sure that all timing marks on your belt are properly lined up. Loosen the timing belt tensioned and you will then be able to remove the timing belt very easily. Make sure that the camshaft and crankshaft for your vehicle’s engine are secured and that they do not move while your timing belt is off of your vehicle.
Step 12. Place your new timing belt on the same way that you removed it. Make any tension adjustments to the timing belt as necessary. Inspect the new belt to make sure that it is fitting over the teeth for the timing sprockets correctly. Makes sure that you do not over tighten the belt.
Step 13. When replacing the timing belt cover install a new gasket to seal the cover correctly. Do not use an old gasket as this will not seal properly.
Step 14. If you had to remove any pumps at the beginning of this project you will now have to hook them back up again. This includes the water pump, power steering pump as well as any other accessories that may have gotten in the way at the beginning of this project.
Step 15. Visually inspect all timing marks to make sure that they are still aligned correctly.
Step 16. Reinstall your vehicle’s air intake assembly that was removed in the beginning.
Step 17. Reconnect your vehicle’s battery. Make sure that there is no corrosion around the posts or the battery cables while you are at this step.
Step 18. Turn on your vehicle and look for any problem areas such as leaks that there may be prior to driving your vehicle. Do not hesitate or postpone any repairs that may be needed.

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Replace Your Timing Chain

What you will need:

1. Combination Wrenches
2. A Socket Set
3. Torque Wrench
3. A Harmonic Balancer Puller
5. A Three-jaw Gear Puller
6. Screwdrivers
7. Hammer and Punch
8. Gasket Scraper
9. Timing Light
10. Tube of Silicone Sealer
11. Timing Chain Cover Gasket Set
12. New Timing Chain and Gears
13. Drain Pan
14. Antifreeze
15. Jack
16. Jack stands

Before You Start:

Follow these instructions carefully. Read and be sure you understand them before you begin.
Gather together all of your tools and supplies before you begin.
Allow plenty of time to do the job so you don’t have to hurry.
Remember that these are general instructions. For more detailed instructions pertaining to your specific vehicle, consult an appropriate repair manual.
Safety is important whenever you’re working around machinery. Beware of hot objects, sharp instruments and hazardous materials.
Don’t substitute tools unless you’re sure you won’t compromise either your safety or the performance of your vehicle.
Never work on a vehicle that is only supported by a jack. Use jack stands to support the vehicle while you work. Work on a solid, level surface. Never jack a car up on dirt or grass.
Why Replace Your Timing Chain?

Over time, wear on internal working parts of your engine will spell the need for replacement. One of the internal working parts that wear is the timing chain and timing sprockets. The timing chain and sprockets are the connecting line between the crankshaft and the camshaft. As the crankshaft turns, via the timing chain, it drives the camshaft that operates the engine’s valves via the lifters, push rods and rocker arm assemblies The timing of the valves opening and closing at precise intervals is crucial for proper engine operation. As the timing chain and sprockets wear, this precise timing of the valves gradually changes, eventually to a point where replacement is necessary.

Telltale signs of worn out timing chains are:

Rough idle.
Sluggish performance and poor economy.
Sudden engine performance change including the inability to start the engine.
Intermittent backfire through the intake manifold.
Inconsistent ignition timing or a clattering noise coming from the front of the engine.
Before starting the disassembly procedures, I would suggest cleaning the engine with an engine degreaser. A clean engine is easier to work on and helps prevent dirt or contamination from entering the engine during disassembly.